About aspects of economic technique ascent the routes in the discipline of sport climbing “lead”

. Purpose: definition of parameters technique of motor actions athletes climbers, reflecting efficiency of the work in the discipline of climbing «lead». Material and Methods: the video resource official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Results: Pace and rhythmic structure of movement technique of elite athletes-climbers in a competitive activity were analyzed. Parameters of hand-movement pace while climber ascent the route, as well as the ratio of the different contact phases of interaction of hands with handholds were determined. Conclusion: the economic of technique movement while climber ascent the route dictated by the pace of hand-movements and the prevalence in the ratio of the rhythmic structure contact phase with one hand was found.


Fig. 1 Variables of pace of hand-movements of acsent the final route of subjects (elite climbers) World chapionships 2012, Italy: men; women
Finding testify to relatively low pace of hand-movements: in a range from 5 to 11 hand-movements per minute. And such tendency is peculiar to both the men and women. Elite sport climbers do not aspire to rapid and intensive movements. It can be related to that increase of pace of movement in direct ratio to growth of power of executable work, consequently, and to the increase of energyexpense of functional resources of organism.
At the same time, it is needed to mark a certain tendency in the indexes of pace of movement (as for men and women): sport climber taking the 1-th place performed most amount of hand-movements (for men -47, for women -49) at the least index of average pace of hand-movements (men -7,23 HM·m -1 , women -5,37 HM·m -1 ). Important to note that such data can be explained by the specific design of the route and construction of climbing wall.
Except for the higher noted parameters of movements of sport climber (pace), an significant role acquires the study of temporal (phase) structure of movement actions performed by hands which determines rhythmic parameters. As is generally known, a rhythm is characteristic for most of locomotins as a major index of economy of technique and can be used for the estimation of technique in sport disciplines in which is possible to correlate the phases of active and nonactive movement actions of athletes.
While ascent the route for every sport climber can alternate loading on hands, moving from one hold to another and to choose adequate support positions of body on purpose to minimize loading on the muscles of upper body. The rationally accented alternation of loading from hand to hand gives possibility to the climber of redistribution of forces, recovery of capacity and decline factors of appearance of premature fatigue during ascent the route.
On purpose to study the features of rhythmic structure of movement actions performed by hands the comparative analysis of this parameter was conducted between the sport climbers of different qualification ( fig. 2). In this case a rhythmic structure of motive actions is temporal relation of contact phases one-hand (left or right separately) and contact simultaneously by two hands during ascent the route.
Most interest for an analysis was presented the duration of contact two hands (simultaneously), as this parameter determines the economy of movement technique of climber in a greater degree. Data are presented on a fig. 2, allow to establish that for lower qualification sport-climbers (placed in the competitions: for women -25 place, for men -23 place) ascent the route requiers more time of contact by wo hands simultaneously (62 % and 52 % respectively), than of high level sport-climbers (1 place in men and women : 41 % and 43 % respectively). To our opinion, that explained by lower qualification sport-climbers faced with difficulty of choice of adequate support positions which possibility to release one hand from loading. At the same time, it can be contingently insufficient development of strenght separate muscular groups which would allow to accept effective body positions.
Analyzing the data in Figure 2, it can also be noted that high level sport climbers peculiar to more economical technique movement along the route. At the same time, for the low level sport climbers are characterized by high total load on both hands: long contact period with both hands simultaneously at high isometric tension of the muscles of the upper body resulting in an earlier depletion of functional resources, and as a result, the earlier development of fatigue in both hands .
Conclusions. The research allowed to identify several indicators characterizing the economy movement technique along the route in the discipline of sport climbing "lead": the pace of hand movement, and the ratio of the rhythmic structure of movement actions of various phases of contact hands. High level sport climbers is characterized by lower values of the pace of hand movement while acsents the route, as well as shorter duration of contact phase simultaneously with both hands in a rhythmic structure of movement actions.
Therefore, perspectives further research are to develop a training program directed at improving the efficiency of movement technique acsent the routes sport climbers (formation of an adequate pace-rhythmic structure of movement actions) in the discipline of sport climbing "lead" on the basis of the results in this study.