THE ETHNO-NATIONAL TRADITIONS IN THE FOOD CULTURE OF THE UKRAINIAN IN THE XVIITH – XIXTH CENTURIES

Abstract

The article reveals the ethno-national traditions in the food culture of the Ukrainian people, who bases on the production and consumption of the national meals and drinks, the system associated with these customs and rituals. It is emphasized that the traditional food culture of our people in the XVIIth – XIXth centuries, is an important stage of its development as a certain mental structure that determines the area of the daily supply of the Ukrainians.

The traditional folk food is an essential component of the support of every human life. The cooking and consumption of the national dishes are the part of the centuries-old tradition with the many ethnic and cultural food restrictions, limitations and advantages, taste stereotypes of the festive dishes daily. The supply system of each ethnic group is a set of the specific products and types of the food, the presence of the historically formed condiments and spices, ingredients and processing methods of the dishes’ cooking, food restrictions and benefits, the rules of the behavior associated with the eating.

The formation of the distinctive specifics of the Ukrainian national cuisine is going in the middle of the XVIth century – at the end of the XVIIth century. It is indicated by the creation of the variety of the assortments and the emergence of the traditional Ukrainian dishes: soup, pickle, fish soup, products made from the unleavened dough, as well as the production of the dry candied fruits and others. The most common among the Zaporozhye Cossacks and Chumaks hot dish kulish – often was prepared from the millet, later the buckwheat, barley, wheat and corn were added to the ingredient. Kulish was brewed during the travels or agricultural work in the field. The rye bread had the more importance in the diet of the Ukrainian Cossack time. The Ukrainian cooking in those times I. Kotlyarevsky colorfully described in his poem "Eneida" (1798).

A number of the new vegetable products: potatoes, sunflower oil, mustard, corn, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, pumpkin were appeared at the end of the XVIIIth – the beginning of the XIXth century, which contributed to a significant enrichment of the range of the tasty dishes of the Ukrainian cooking. Without potatoes it was impossible the cooking of the borsch, it is widely used in the cooking of the second dishes with the addition of other ingredients: meat, bacon, cheese, beans, carrots, mushrooms, horseradish, apples, poppy. Potatoes up today is consumed boiled, fried and baked. The potato starch and molasses with the addition of the fruits are used in the production of the different jelly

In the process of the social stratification the food culture more tangible lost the folk signs, and with them the Ukrainian national coloring. With the Peter’s reforms the Ukrainian landlords introduced the Western culinary traditions with a hitherto unknown German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses, although supplemented by the ancient Ukrainian dishes. The second half of the XIXth century was designated with the appearance of the great for the most rich segments of the population in the provincial cities. they The French chef cooks were invited To work in these restaurants with his recipe and preparation technology of the Western dishes. As a result, many traditional dishes of the Ukrainian national cooking were been forgotten or had experienced noticeable deterioration of its representative and palatability.

The ensuring of the successful existence of the ethno-cultural tradition of the catering of the Ukrainian people is based on the representative set of the high-quality products of the manufacturing and consumption of the national dishes and beverages, the system related with customs and rituals. The quality catering is the significant and meaningful composite of the material ethnic culture of our people, carrying the opposite effect on his spiritual culture too. The con- sumption by the Ukrainians of the bakery products; boiled, steamed dishes; the gifts of the garden, soft drinks and alcoholic

beverages, namely, honey, kvass, Sbitnev and compotes are indicated as resistant ethno-cultural tradition. The daily intake by the Ukrainians the liquid hot first cooking: in the historical remoteness – from the brew potions, and later – borscht, soups and Kulish on the renewable raw materials; by the custom painted consumption of the meat and eggs, etc. is sustainabily. That is: the traditional culture of the catering of our people in the mentioned cultural-historical period – from the beginning of the liberation movements of the seventeenth century and up to the formation of the foundations of the modern Ukrainian statehood – is an important step in the formation of the food culture as a certain mental structure, which determines the scope of the daily supply of the Ukrainian.