FORMING OF CONCEPTUAL BASES OF FASHION INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENT IN CONTEXT OF SOCIETY’S SOCIAL EVOLUTION
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.32461/2226-0285.2.2015.146873Keywords:
Fashion, fashion industry, suit, fashion standard, history of suit, consumption society, Fashion House, haute coutureAbstract
In the article the principles of forming of conceptual bases of fashion industry development are formulated in the context of social evolution of society (on the example of development of consumption society in a period between The World Wars of the ХХ centuries. The results of co-operation of the French fashion and American cinema in 1920th – 1930th, that consist in the mutual influencing assimilation of consumers’ tastes, forming of leading role of mass media in distribution of fashionable tendencies among great consumers’ masses are described.
After The First World War the world of fashion was finally divided into two parts. The bulk of post-war society for priority chose appearance of naturalism and rapprochement with nature that was an instrument in popularization of healthy way of life and waiver of sculptural suit of "modern" epoch. The similar strengthening of functionality of womanish clothes was the result the use of elements and articles of masculine cloak-room in womanish appearances. So the ‘La Garson appearance’ appeared in the fashion of ХХ centuries, and fashion industry, in same queue, was forced to reform on mass production of practical functional clothes for mass using, as the most perspective direction of development.
This tendency remained in a fashion up to the end of 1920th and burst in 1929 till the world economic crisis led to cardinal changes in public bases and traditions. In the context of socio-economic situation and it was a difficult period, a womanish fashion became less impertinent and went back to natural womanlike appearances. This period of a fashion, called by neoclassicism, touched not only womanish appearances or fashionable clothes but furniture, interior, architecture.
In accordance with problem and results of analysis of previous studies in this sphere, the purpose of this work can be formulated as forming of conceptual bases of the fashion industry origin in the context of social evolution of society (on the example of development of society of consumption in a period between The World Wars of ХХ century).
Fashion industry, naturally, created the lines of sporting clothes of the different setting. Basic functional and vivid lines promoted properties of comfort, laconic natural colour decisions, adaptation of descriptions of clothes for employments by that or other type of sport with a specific incident, for the use in the sporting clothes of the common setting. Exactly this period of development of fashion industry started the forming of sporting style in fashion clothes, which in the design of suit of the end of ХХ – beginning of ХХI centuries. It is considered to be one of four base styles of creation of fashion clothes.
The period of 1930th made a lot for expansion of spheres of activity of fashion industry and strengthening of its influencing both on consumers’ advantages of wide layers of society and on bringing in activity of production of new industries of clothes, accessories and concomitant commodities. All these issues were grounded.
In 1930th the fashion of the healthy way of life and active employment continued getting popularity of the different types of sport among the wide layers of population. In this case, it requested from The Houses of the High fashion and mass production in sewing industry of development of new types of practical functional clothes.
However, the value of active distribution of sporting clothes in fashion industry consists in the fact, that sporting clothes were made in large volumes, though high popularity. It can be considered the first example of industrial production of clothes of mass demand. The implementation of principles of distribution of store clothes among wide consumers’ layers, proved the fact that many well-known The Houses of Fashion in 1930th proposed this category of the products in boutique for the sale, opened at the beginning of ХХ century for demonstration of "haute couture" models of clothes.
The 1930th became a period, when another sphere of fashion industry was formed. It is rather popular in the ХХI century. The Fashion Houses were inclined to occupy the sector of world fashion-market, oriented to the designer and marketing policy on a certain special purpose consumer group. So, in fashion industry, the "designer brand concept" included not only development or production of new types of fashion clothes but also the creation of accessories. This tendency began in 1930th
However, not all industrial production of fashion clothes types and commodities developed from the moment of bringing in them to fashion industry. So, with the change of fashion on womanish appearance in 1920- years (woman-"La Garson"), certain stagnation happened in lingerie production. At the beginning of 1930th the appearance of femininity was again included in a fashion. On the basis of those tendencies the production of lingerie got a new impulse for development.
At that period, the cinema made great influence on a fashion and the development of its industry. On one hand, it became the unreserved leader of forming of fashion appearances as in ideals of masculine and womanish beauty as in the issue of popularization of certain directions in creation of fashion clothes. On other hand, indeed a cinema was an instrument of the wide distribution of all fashion information about fashion tendencies among the wide layers of society.
Thus, it is possible to make the conclusions that the co-operation of the French fashion and American cinema in 1920th – 1930th, first of all, led to the mutual influencing and assimilation of consumers’ tastes that afterwards transformed into the total globalization of fashion. Secondly, in those years the leading role of mass media was played in distribution of fashion tendencies among great consumers masses. Time passed, technological possibilities of mass-media changed in the context of scientific and technical development of society, their spectrum broadened and the publicity-informative methods of action were improved in the implementations of consumer tastes. So, the informative sphere in fashion industry began stably increasing from the 1920th – 1930th and its role in the fashion industry needed more careful research.
References
Бодо Ф. Шик и шарм / Ф.Бодо; пер. с фр. Е.Д. Богатыренко. – М.: Слово/Slovo, 2006. – 400 с.: ил.
Романовская М.Б. История костюма и гендерные сюжеты моды / М.Б. Романовская. – СПб.: Алетейя, 2010. – 442 с.: ил.
Блэкмен К. 100 лет моды / К. Блэкмен. – М.: КоЛибри, 2013. – 400с.: ил.
Васильев А.А. Этюды о моде и стиле / А.А. Васильев. – М.: Альпина нон-фикшн; Глагол, 2008. –560с.: ил.
Латур А. Волшебники парижской моды / А. Латур. – М.: Этерна, 2012. – 424с.: ил.
Линч А. Изменения в моде: причины и следствия / А. Линч, М.Д. Штраус. – Минск: Гревцов Паблишер, 2009. – 280 с.
Плаксина Э.Б. История костюма. Стили и направления / Э.Б. Плаксина, Л.А. Михайловская. – М.:Изд. Центр "Академия", 2004. – 224с.: ил.
Захаржевская Р. В. История костюма: от античности до современности / Р.В. Захаржевская. – М.:РИПОЛ классик, 2005. – 288 с.: ил.
Аксенова М. Мода и стиль / М.Аксенова, Т. Евсеева, А. Чернова и др. – М.: Аванта+, 2007. – 480 с.: ил.
История моды с XVII по ХХ столетие. Коллекция Института костюма Киото / под ред. А. Фукай.–М.: TASCEN/АРТ-РОДНИК (изд. на русск. языке), 2003. – 735 с.: ил.
Art Deco Fashion / Amsterdam-Singapore, 2007. – 408 p.: ill.
Косарева Е.А. Мода. ХХ век. Развитие модных форм костюма / Е.А. Косарева. – СПб.: Издательство"Петербургский институт печати", 2006. – 468 с.: ил.
Нанн Дж. История костюма, 1200–2000 / Дж. Нанн. – М.: Астрель: АСТ, 2000. – 343 с.: ил.
Bodo, F. (2006). Shick & Sharm (E. Bogatyirenko, Trans.). Мoscow: Слово/Slovo [in Russian].
Romanovskaya, M.B. (2010). History of suit and gender subjects of fashion. St. Petersburg: Aleteyya [in Russian].
Blackman, K. (2013). 100 years of fashion. Мoscow: КоLibri [in Russian].
Vasilyev, A.A. (2008). Etudes about fashion and style. Moscow: Alpinanon-fiction; Glagol [in Russian].
LaTour, A. (2012). Magicians of Parisian Fashion. Moscow: Etherna [in Russian].
Lynch, A. & Strauss, M.D. (2009). Changing Fashion: a Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Meaning. (A. Goldina. Trans.). Minsk: Grevcov Pulishier [in Russian].
Plaksina. E. & Michaylovskaya, L. (2004). History of suit. Styles and trends. Moscow: "Acdemia" Publishing [in Russian].
Zaharzhevskaya, R. V. (2005). History of suit: from antiquity to contemporary. Moscow: RIPOL classic [in Russian].
Aksyonova, M., Evseeva, T. & Chernova A. (2007). Fashion & Style. Moscow: Avanta+ [in Russian].
Fukai, A. (Eds.). (2003). Fashion History from XVII tо ХХ centuries. Kyoto Costume Institute Colltction. Moscow: TASCHEN/ART-RODNIK [in Russian].
Art Deco Fashion (2007). Amsterdam-Singapore: The Pepin Press
Kosareva, E. (2006). Fashion. XX century. The development of fashionable forms of suit. St. Petersburg: Petersburg Press Institute [in Russian].St. Petersburg: Aleteyya [in Russian].
Nann, J. (2000). The History of Suit, 1200 – 2000. Moscow: Astrel: AST [in Russian].
Downloads
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2018 Almanac "Culture and Contemporaneity"
![Creative Commons License](http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by/4.0/88x31.png)
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Authors who publish with this journal agree to the following terms:
- Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).