Costume formation specialties on Ukrainian areas during the Middle Ages
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.32461/2226-2180.37.2020.221431Keywords:
costume architectonics, a costume of Cherniakhiv, Antes costume, paleo-textile, Kievan Rus’ costume.Abstract
Purpose of the article is to perform a comparison analysis of reconstructed variants of medieval costumes to discover the main formation patterns. To define strong historical long-term signs in forms and types of outfits. To determine costumes’ architectonics from different periods of the Middle Ages. Methodology. Methodologically author correlated data of practical archeology and art masterpieces. Scientific novelty determes reconstruction of costumes of sideline historical periods from pra-Slavic till the Late Middle Ages allows to discover a chain of permanent and variable signs. Conclusions. Architectonics of pra-Slavic costume had double or probably tipple layered structure which was kept in the Middle Ages as well. The costume basics could be considered a tunic-type outfit. Women had a two-tiered model of breastplate related to German tradition. Also in common is the tradition of embroidering necklaces. The other features of Chernyakhiv and Antes dresses do not match. Corals and amber were used as jewelry since pra-Slavic period. In the outfit of the Ancient Rus two-tiered model is not used. Since the High Middle Ages appeared some elements which after transformation where adopted in Ukrainian folk outfit. In the hat group there were forms of the towel types know as mantles (namitka) or tablecloths (obrus) as well as sewn caps (očipok). In the group of outerwear - the suite (svyta) and the casing (kožuch). These two types of shoulder clothing over the centuries have become buttoned (unlike the old Russian ones).References
Braichevska O. A. (2010). Tkatstvo, vyshyvka. Istoriia ukrainskoho mystetstva. H.A. Skrypnyk (Eds.). (Vols. 1-5. Vol. 2). K.: IMFE im. M. T. Rylskoho NAN Ukrainy. 808–838. [in Ukrainian]
Buzian H. M., Teteria D. A. (2009). Tkanyny z gruntovoho mohylnyka Pereiaslava Ruskoho. Arkheolohiia. 3, 42–103. [in Ukrainian]
Hopkalo O.V. (2017). Ostatky odezhdы yz pohrebenyi kulturы Cherniakhov – Sыntana-de-Muresh.
Arkheolohiia i davnia istoriia Ukrainy. 1 (22), 22–39. [in Russian]
Hopkalo O. V. (2011). Choloviche ta zhinoche cherniakhivske vbrannia. Arkheolohiia. 2, 17 – 34. [in Ukrainian]
Petrauskas O.V. (2004). Pokhovannia bahatoi divchynky na mohylnyku Cherniakhivskoi kultury Velyka Buhaivka. Arkheolohiia davnikh slovian. Doslidzhennia i materialy. K.: Instytut arkheolohii NAN Ukrainy. 165–184. [in Ukrainian]
Rodynkova V. E. (2011). Zhenskyi kostium dneprovskykh plemen vremen v эpokhu velykoho pereselenyia narodov: sovremennoe sostoianye yssledovanyi. Novыe yssledovanyia po arkheolohyy stran SNH y Baltyy: mat-lы Shkolы mol. arkheolohov. Kyryllov. V. E. Rodynkova (Eds.). M.: YA RAN. 239–265. [in Russian]
Saburova M. A. (1997). Drevnerusskyi kostium. Arkheolohyia. Drevniaia Rus. Byt i kultura. M.: Nauka. 93–109. [in Russian]
Shchehlova O. A. (1999). Zhenskyi holovnoi obor yz kladok «drevnostei antov»: hotskoe vlyianye yly hotskoe nasledye? Stratum. 5, 287–312. [in Russian]
Hendzsel I., Istvánovits E., Kulcsár V., et al. (2008). On the Borders of East and West: A Reconstruction of Roman Provincial and Barbarian Dress in the Hungarian National Museum. Dressing the Past. Oxford. 29—42. (Ancient Textiles. Ser. 3). [in English]
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2020 Irina Nesen
![Creative Commons License](http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by/4.0/88x31.png)
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Authors who publish with this journal agree to the following terms:
- Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).