COMBINATORIAL SHAPE-FORMING IN CLOTHING BASED ON CATALOG ELEMENTS
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.32461/2226-3209.2.2014.137976Keywords:
combinatorial element, costume shape-forming, catalog, positioning gridAbstract
Combinatorics of fashionable forms is an effective tool with a wide range of application. One of its species is combinatorics of catalog items. Catalog allows to classify elements and improves the efficiency of searching and creating the schemes for their positioning. Catalog elements have their properties, selection criteria and the tasks of transformation. Usually catalog includes a large number of elements, because through the directory, you can create a variety in style and range of costume forms, and thus increase the variability of design decisions.
A special feature of the catalog of combinatorial costume elements is that all the elements in it have its place in the location grid and cannot be arbitrarily changed during positioning, as is the case with other types of elements.
Taking into account the specific properties of the location, you can define the main range of sources of primary elements. First, it is a collection of contemporary fashion designers. As is a choice of costume characteristics that are fashionable belongs to well-known designers, it is in their collections you can see a constant source of fashion material. To create a more efficient catalog, it is effective to use multiple collections of various designers as a source of elements. Interesting material can be runways of high fashion, because their elements are often very exaggerated and shocking, but can be applied in everyday clothes only after the phase of transformation and adaptation.
Given the dependence of the separation of combinatorial elements into parts from the selection of positioning grid, you can create a system of combinatorial elements using the grid as a means of separation of morphological forms. In today's mass production, project materials can be elaborated designs of yesteryears. This is convenient, because implementation of such collections in life can lower costs for design and construction. In this case a catalog is created with the principle of complementarities, meaning additions.
The source of elements affect the catalog term of relevance. Trend-books provide information for 3-5 years, so catalogs created on their basis can also remain valid at this time. Links from haute couture collections can serve 1-4 years, depending on the abstraction of elements and a degree of transformation.
Form of the source should be morphologically analyzed and separated into components. One should be guided by the basic criteria of catalog organization In the process of separation. Parts, or the element derived from the analysis of primary sources can be classified in several ways:
1. Structure elements (bodice, sleeve).
2. Silhouette (triangle, rectangle, oval, trapezoid)
3. Product groups (dresses, blouses, pants).
4. Appointment (casual clothes, formal suits, underwear)
5. Details of a cut and decorative parts (sleeves, front, trouser leg, collar), which is appropriate when using CAD in a suit.
6. Style (evening dresses, sporty, teenage clothing).
Catalogs can have different sizes depending on the number of items, its destination and the planned timing of its use. When choosing items that will be included in the catalog, one should avoid repetition. When you create a group of elements that will be included in the catalog, you need to select the main form, or create a generalized form of similar items.
When choosing items that will be included in the catalog, you should take into account the prospects for their use in future planning. Elements that are relevant, but cannot be reconciled with other forms in the directory should not be included in the palette.
Pages of directory can be organized from elements of one group or several groups. Each item may have some code, or indication, for ease of identification in subsequent suit. The code may contain information about items belonging to certain groups, so that the code can be read to determine the function, silhouette, style and product line of an item.
Catalog may be electronic or printed. Printed version of the catalog is useful when team of designers is participating in the design, so they can discuss certain combinations. In the electronic version of the directory one can set certain interactive features that simplify the search for items and even a system of autonomous completing the form with elements.
Since all catalog entries have certain properties of compatibility and can be combined with other elements, it is advisable to create a grid diagram in which each element can find its place. Grid cells are specific niches in which elements are placed. Sometimes the form may occupy multiple cells. Formation grid positioning depends on the properties of the elements and the types of their classification and division.
Even if the grid provides simultaneous creation of all costumes, or the possible set of several products of different product groups, it may be not the only option the project design. You can create several possible schemes of filling for one catalog, increasing variability of model line.
Because the catalog is a particular system within which suit must be established, it should contain all the necessary parts for full combination of model, as directory entries may be more diverse than other primary elements of combinatorics. Expanding the variant number of catalog elements is possible not only through choosing of new fashion forms, but also through transformations of already selected ones using symmetry or basic combinatorial variations.
Creating of a catalog can be a universal stage in working with primary elements of combinatorics, because catalog is a systematic set of items and may include some of the types and numbers of variations of these elements created using combinatorial and symmetric transformations. The only significant difference from a simple set of conventions is catalog`s certainty, the assignment of project tasks, product groups and final timing of models relevance.
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