Ethno-Cultural Codes of the Ukrainian Traditional Costume in the Reflection of the World of High Fashion

Abstract

The purpose of the work is to find out the variability of the reflection of the ethno-cultural codes of the traditional Ukrainian costume in the couture creations of the world of high fashion. The research methodology is based on the application of a systemic approach, as well as a set of such scientific methods as analytical, comparative, cultural, art history, and semiotic, which makes it possible to comprehensively consider the given issue and formulate well-founded conclusions. Scientific novelty is characterised by a systematic generalisation of the problem of the interaction of ethnic components of culture (at the level of ethno-cultural codes and semantic series) with modern cultural and artistic visions in the dimension of the world of high fashion. It has been found that the specificity of the interaction of fashion and ethnic culture is manifested in the borrowing of folk symbols by fashion, but their embodiment is subject to the sign-symbolic code of modernity, this process actually takes place along the local-global line. Conclusions. Summarising, we note that fashion as a socio-cultural phenomenon is a formed semiosphere, which is a moving structure mediated both by the general cultural trends of its time, and by the ideals and values of society, its preferences. The art of high fashion Haute couture embodies author's samples-concepts, which are endowed with a number of meanings and connotations, relaying them in general. Fashion acts as an open system of cultural interpretations, citations, variability, forming a new semiotic space. The use of ethnic components and ethnocultural codes in high fashion works not only adds to them "depth of sound” and polystylism, but is also included in the artistic postmodern game and exchange of meanings, signs in the symbolic/imaginary/real system, forming new cultural texts. Ukrainian ethno-cultural codes in the practice of high fashion were repeatedly included in the creation of collections of world fashion trends, giving the samples original variability and color. At the same time, the world of high fashion actualises the levels of cultural perception of ethnicity, tradition, updating and expanding the artistic language of modern culture.

Key words: ethnocultural codes, high fashion, couture products, Ukrainian traditional costume, ethnic culture, global, local.