National Traditions in Military Uniform of Ukraine of the 21st Century on the Example of a Shirt as a Central Element of Ukrainian Folk Costume

Abstract

The purpose of the work is to explore the role of the most famous component of the folk costume of the Ukrainian people – a shirt in the national military uniform of the beginning of the 21st century, by analysing its use during this and previous historical periods, both in military and folk use. Since the Ukrainian military costume of present times embodies the traditions of previous historical periods dating back to the Cossack era, when it was first presented in the unified form. Therefore, this part of both folk and military costume is of scientific interest within the scope of this study, with a special emphasis on the use of a shirt in the Cossack era and in the modern period. This also determines the chronological limits of the article, starting from the period of the 16th to the 18th centuries (the existence of the Cossack state) and to present times. The research methodology is based on the application of a systemic approach, an analytical method, and cultural analysis. To solve the tasks, a number of scientific methods have been used, including historical method, comparison and generalisation, as well as the method of art analysis. Scientific novelty. For the first time in modern art history, the role of the Ukrainian folk shirt as a component of the modern military costume was studied, types and functions of a shirt in the time of Cossacks were clarified; a comprehensive analysis of the meaning of a shirt for military men of Ukraine at the beginning of the 21st century and during the war between Russia and Ukraine was conducted. Conclusions. A shirt as the most common component of folk clothing was at the same time an integral part of military costume of the Ukrainian Cossacks. Having undergone a series of transformations, this element of clothing has preserved its original artistic image, functionality, regional, and gender specifics to this day.

Key words: traditional shirt, folk costume, dress, clothing, military uniform, military costume, uniform, Cossacks.