Retrospectivity as the project practice of actual appearances forming in the fashion system of ХХІ age
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.32461/2226-3209.2.2019.177747Keywords:
fashion system, fashionable appearance, retrospectivity, project practice, designer’s brand, fashion standardAbstract
Purpose of the Article. Primary purpose of this research is to describe the retrospectivity as the factor of antiglobalization and individualization in the fashion at the ХХI age. Also the method of introduction of trends of retrospectivity as a project practice in the fashion system of the end ХХ - beginning of ХХI ages is determined in the article. The methodology consists in systematization and generalization of theoretical and factual information on the artistically-projective methods of development of actual fashion appearances. The basis of methodological principles of description of retrospectivity facilities are literary-analytical and comparatively-associative methods. Scientific Novelty. It is grounded in the article, that expansion of spheres of influence and improvement of ways of retrospective elements adaptation in the modern fashion system today becomes the ponderable factor of forming of actual projects appearances, especially in the context of crisis of consumption. Accordingly, address to the reasons of cultural legacy by many apologists of consumer society is characterized as a search of individuality and self-expression, assisting to development of retro- and vintage trends in the fashion system. Conclusions. As a result of the conducted research it is possible to conclude, that designers realized give the suits or appearances created as compiling of the separate elements used on the basis of quoting or stylization. It is marked in the article, that a wide variety in directions of project activity and typical creative handwriting of modern Houses of fashion and trades marks, make the epoch of using of retro-elements and retro-styles the leading trend of the modern fashion system functioning and is not an instrument in forming of new eccentric stylish decision which will go down in history suit and fashion.
References
Lipovetsky, G. The Empire of Fashion; translated by C.P.Princeton. NJ: Princeton University Press, 1994. 174 p.
Pashkevich K.L., Kolosnichenko M.V., Ostapenko N.V. Research of some physical and mechanical characteristics of suiting fabrics for designing the clothes. Vlakna a Textile. 2016. № 1. P. 3 – 8.
Гейл К., Каур. Я. Мода и текстиль: рождение новых тенденций; пер. с англ. Т.О. Ежов; науч.ред. Т.В. Кулахметова. Минск: Гревцов Паблишер, 2009. 240 с.
Гофман А.Б. Новая теория моды и модного поведения. 3-е изд. СПб: Питер, 2004. 208 с.:ил.
Кавамура Ю. Теория и практика создания моды; пер. с англ. А.Н. Поплавская; науч.ред. А.В. Лебсак-Клейманс. Минск: Гревцов Паблишер, 2009. 192 с.
Колосніченко М.В., Зубкова Л.І., Пашкевич К.Л., Остапенко Н.В., Васильєва І.В., Колосніченко О.В. Ергономіка і дизайн. Проектування сучасних видів одягу: Навчальний посібник. К.: ПП «НВЦ «Профі», 2014. 386 с.
Линч А., Штраус М.Д. Изменения в моде: причины и следствия; пер. с англ. А.М. Гольдина; науч.ред. А.В. Лебсак-Клейманс. Минск: Гревцов Паблишер, 2009. 280 с.
Малинська А.М., Пашкевич К.Л., Смирнова М.Р., Колосніченко О.В. Розробка колекцій одягу: Навчальний посібник. Київ: ПП НВЦ «Профі», 2014. – 140 с.
Масленцева Н. Ю. Мода как предмет социокультурного анализа. Прага: Издательство «Vedecko vydavatelske centrum Sociosfera-CZ s. r. о.», 2014. №2. 172 c.
Ніколаєва Т.В. Тектоніка формоутворення костюма: Навчальний посібник. - 3-тє вид., доп. К. : Арістей, 2011. 340 с.
Пашкевич К.Л. Теоретичні основи дизайну одягу на засадах тектонічного підходу: автореф. дис. … д-ра техн. наук: спец. 05.01.03 «Технічна естетика» Київ, 2017. 45 с.
Уайт Н., Гриффитс Йе. Fashion-бизнес: теория, практика, феномен; пер. с англ. А.Н. Поплавская. Минск: Гревцов Паблишер, 2008. 272 с.
Чуприна Н.В. Принципы формирования и реализации модных тенденций в индустрии моды. Известия ВУЗов. Технология текстильной промышленности. 2018. № 1 (373). С. 123 – 127
Чупріна Н.В., Охріменко Є.А. Розвиток тенденцій ретроспективності індустрії моди кінця ХХ – початку ХХІ століть. Вісник КНУТД. 2015. № 3. С. 282 - 290.
Lipovetsky, G. (1994). The Empire of Fashion. NJ: Princeton University Press [in English].
Pashkevich, K.L., Kolosnichenko, M.V. & Ostapenko, N.V. (2016). Research of some physical and mechanical characteristics of suiting fabrics for designing the clothes. Vlákna a textil - Fibers and textiles, 1, 3 – 8 [in English].
Gale, K. & Kaur, J. (2009). Fashion and Textiles: an Overview. Minsk: Grevcov Publisher [in Russian].
Gofman, A.B. (2004). The New Theory of Fashion and Fashion Mutuality. SPb: Piter [in Russian].
Kawamura Yu. (2009). Teoriya i praktika sozdaniya mody [Theory and practice of fashion creation]. Minsk [in Russian].
Kolosnichenko, M.V., Zubkova, L.I., Pashkevych, K.L., N.V. Ostapenko, Vasyl'yeva, I.V. (2014). Erhonomika i dyzayn. Proektuvannya suchasnykh vydiv odyahu: Navchal'nyy posibnyk [Ergonomics and design. Designing modern types of clothing]. Kyiv: PP NVTs Profi [in Ukrainian].
Lynch A. & Mitchell D. Strauss (2009). Izmeneniya v mode: prichiny i sledstviya [Changing Fashion: a Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Meaning]. Minsk: Grevcov Publisher [in Russian].
Malyns'ka, A.M., Pashkevych, K.L., Smyrnova, M.R. & Kolosnichenko, O.V. (2014). Rozrobka kolektsiy odyahu [Clothing collection development]. Kyiv: PP NVTs Profi [in Ukrainian].
Maslentseva N. Yu. (2014). Fashion as a subjact of socio-cultural analysis. Praga: Izdatel'stvo «Vedecko vydavatelske centrum Sociosfera-CZ s. r. o.». [in Chech]
Nikolayeva, T. (2011). Tektonika formoutvorennya kostyuma [Tectonics of shaping suit]. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Pashkevych, K.L. (2017). Teoretychni osnovy dyzaynu odyahu na zasadakh tektonichnoho pidkhodu [Theoretical foundations of clothes design on the basis of a tectonic approach]. Extended abstract of Doctore’s thesis. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
White, N. & Griffiths, I. (2008). The Fashion business: theory, practice, image. Minsk: Grevcov Publisher [in Russian].
Chuprina N.V. (2018). Printsipyi formirovaniya i realizatsii modnyih tendentsiy v industrii modyi [Principles of Forming and Realization of Fashion Trends in Fashion Industry]. Izvestiya VUZov. Tehnologiya tekstilnoy promyishlennosti - News of higher Institutes. Technology of textile industry, 1 (373), 123 – 127 [in Russian].
Chuprina N.V.& Okhrimenko E.A. (2015). Development Of The Retrospective Tendencies In Fashion Industry of the End ХХ - Beggining of ХХІ Ages. Visnyk KNUTD - Bulletin of KNUTD, 3, 282 - 290 [in Ukrainian].
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Authors who publish with this journal agree to the following terms:
1. Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
2. Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
3. Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).