Development of composition and research of emulsion cream based on amarante oil and lactic acid

Abstract

Introduction. One of the important stages of treatment of patients with diabetes, chronic dermatosis, xerosis is the use of external therapies designed to eliminate the symptoms of dry skin, which accompanies these diseases and is cyclical. Comprehensive care for dry skin involves, in addition to topical steroids, the use of drugs that have hydrating, emollient, keratolytic action. It is provided by fats and fat-like substances that soften and restore skin elasticity, eliminate moisture loss; moisturizers, as well as substances that provide keratolytic action. The modern pharmaceutical market of Ukraine is not sufficiently provided with topical agents for the treatment and care of dry skin, which makes relevant the development of the composition and technology of domestic foreign drugs. Aim of research. The aim of this work is to develop the composition of the emulsion cream based on amaranth oil and lactic acid, and to study of its sensory and pharmacological properties. Materials and methods. The object of the study are experimental samples of emulsions, the oil phase of which is from 10 to 20%, it included two types of oils - amaranth and corn, the aqueous phase contains xanthan gum, glycerin, lactic acid. Research methods used were organoleptic (appearance, color, odor, homogeneity) and pharmaco-technological (determination of thermal stability, colloid. The rheological parameters of the samples were determined, flow rheograms were constructed, according to which the thixotropic properties and extrusion of the samples were determined. Sensory parameters were studied in respondents with dry skin: absorption by the skin, feeling of hydration, speed of distribution, the presence of stickiness, shine, feeling of oiliness, the remainder of the film before and after absorption. Results and discussion. The use of amaranth seed oil is due to its moisturizing, protective, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, membrane stabilizing and emollient effect due to the presence of a unique complex of biologically active substances: phytosterols, tocotrienols, squalene, phospholysic acid and phospholipids. Corn oil has nourishing, protective properties, is dermatologically neutral, does not irritate the skin, so it was used as an additional component of the oil phase of emulsions. Olivem 1000, which allows to obtain stable emulsions in the presence of components capable of diluting the consistency was used as an emulsifier. Lactic acid, which is a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor, was used as a moisturizing ingredient. The study of structural and mechanical properties of experimental samples of emulsion creams allowed to choose the optimal concentration of ingredients and justify the final composition. The established pH values are acceptable for products containing lactic acid. The result of the study of the structural and mechanical properties of the experimental samples were rheograms of the dependence of the shear rate on the shear stress. The areas of hysteresis loops on the rheograms allowed to choose the composition with the best extrusion and structural-mechanical properties. According to sensory properties, samples were selected that showed the best results, good absorption, distribution, no stickiness. Conclusion. The structural and mechanical properties of experimental samples of emulsions, which showed sufficient thixotropic and satisfactory sensory properties, were studied. As a result of the research, the composition of the emulsion cream with amaranth oil and lactic acid was substantiated. According to the results of research of sensory and organoleptic parameters of the model samples of the cream, the sample with the best consumer properties was selected. The technology of making cosmetic cream was substantiated and developed. 

Keywords: symptom complex of dry skin, emulsion cream, moisturizing effect, amaranth seed oil, lactic acid.

DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.6350205