Medical Technologies. Pharmaceutical Cosmetology, Cosmeceuticals Based on Herbal Medicines: Modern Trends and Regulatory Approaches

Анотація

Introduction. Modern cosmetology is characterized by the integration of medical technologies, pharmaceutical and cosmetic approaches, which led to the formation of cosmeceuticals as a separate direction. A special place in cosmeceuticals is occupied by phytopreparations that contain biologically active substances (flavonoids, carotenoids, triterpenoids) and provide a complex effect on the skin. Purpose of the study. To analyze the role of herbal remedies in cosmeceuticals on the example of Calendula officinalis L. (calendula extract), to conduct a comparative analysis with the requirements of Deutsches Arzneibuch (DAB), as well as to perform a SWOT (Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, Threats)- and PESTEL (Political, Economic, Social, Technological, Environmental, Legal) analysis of the development of phytocosmeceuticals. Materials and methods. Documentary analysis of scientific sources and regulatory documentation, comparative analysis of pharmacopoeia requirements, pharmacological analysis of biologically active substances (quercetin, β-carotene, oleanolic acid derivatives), as well as SWOT and PESTEL analysis were used. Cosmeceutical preparations, in particular Calendula ointment (International Nonproprietary Name: Calendula extract) and dexpanthenol agents (chemical name: (R)-2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethylbutanamide) were studied. Results. It has been established that herbal remedies provide anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antioxidant, and regenerative effects due to their multicomponent composition. Calendula extract has been shown to be effective in the treatment of inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions. It has been found that the requirements of DAB are more stringent and provide for standardization according to marker compounds and the use of chromatographic methods (TLC - (Thin-Layer Chromatography), HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography). SWOT analysis demonstrated the strengths of phytocosmeceuticals (naturalness, biocompatibility) and limitations (composition variability), while PESTEL analysis confirmed the significant impact of macroeconomic and regulatory factors on the development of the industry. Conclusions. Herbal remedies are a promising area of cosmeceuticals that combines effectiveness and safety. Calendula officinalis L. is one of the key ingredients in modern cosmeceuticals. It is necessary to improve the standardization system in accordance with European requirements and introduce innovative technologies to improve the quality of products.